Walton's Meat Processing Equipment Walton's Electric Sausage Stuffer Review Waltons Electric Stuffer Waltons Electric Stuffer Motor Electric Sausage Stuffer Tubes tray

Walton's has spent over 2 years working with our manufacturer to create an Electric Sausage Stuffer that can run all types of sausages, including snack sticks! We are happy to announce we have finalized the design and production and will have them in stock this year! (2022)

The Walton’s E-Series, 20 and 30 lb Sausage Stuffers are currently available on waltons.com at Walton’s 20 lb and Walton’s 30 lb.

The Walton’s E-Series Sausage Stuffers come with 4 stuffing tubes from 13mm to 38mm, a foot pedal to operate the motor, all stainless steel construction, a drawer in the base to store tubes, and a manual handle if you want to hand crank. The 13mm tube will allow you to do snack stick-sized sausages. 21mm smoke collagens will slide right on, and 19mm are possible with a little effort. When using the Electric Motor for Snack Sticks, we recommend between .75 and 1.5 liters of water per 25 lb batch. The higher the water content, the easier it will stuff, but the motor does have the power to stuff snack sticks with .75 liters of water when using a pork meat block. If you do use a binder, then Sure Gel is the only acceptable binder to be used. We do not approve of using other binders, especially Soy Protein Blend, for making snack stick-sized casings with the Electric Motor.

The Electric Sausage Stuffer has sensors in the gearbox that tell it when the piston is all the way down or all the way up, so it will stop (when up) or reverse direction (when down). This is both for convenience and to protect the motor. The units will remove any guesswork with a label on the motor showing what speed setting is appropriate for the type of sausage. Each meat batch is slightly different, so will require experimentation on the user’s part to find the perfect speed for stuffing.

Our stuffing tubes were redesigned specifically for this Sausage Stuffer. The angle of the slope allows for less pressure build-up than the “bell”-shaped tubes.

Features: 30 lb canister All Stainless Steel Construction Electric Motor Foot Pedal Built-in Circuit Protector Piston markings show remaining amount in canister Drawer in the base for storage Strong plunger gasket Air release valve Should you buy an Electric Sausage Stuffer?

Walton's Electric Sausage Stuffers can be a great tool in your home processing kitchen. By using a motor instead of having to hand crank the piston, you can more easily make sausage by yourself! Because of the force that is required to push the meat through the small stuffing tubes required for making snack sticks, the correct amount of water and additives must be used. If you are someone who does not add water to your meat as you are mixing and stuffing, then an electric stuffer is not going to work for snack sticks for you! Also, remember that different meats have different water content and densities, so proteins like pork will be much easier to stuff than denser proteins like beef or elk.

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Thanks for showing me this Tex_77

Do you know the box dimensions? Wondering if it will fit in my HHR. It gets better milage than the Suburban.

Equipment Header What Size Meat Grinder Do I Need?

Walton's sells a variety of meat grinders, from our smallest # 8 kitchen grinder for someone who is going to do occasional small batches all the way up to the # 32 for those who are going to use it for multiple deer or hogs a year. The size of the meat grinder you need really depends on how much meat you have to process at a time and how many times a year you are going to use it, so keep reading for a detailed description of each of our grinders to find the one that is perfect for you!

Waltons # 8 Kitchen Grinder Waltons Processing Grinder Waltons Processing 32 Walton’s # 8 Kitchen Grinder:

This # 8 meat grinder has a 575-watt motor and diecast head and auger and comes with 2 stainless steel plates, a knife, stuffing tubes, a stomper that will store those stuffing tubes, and an extra plate. So, what is the advantage of this grinder? It is inexpensive, but it is going to be a step up for anyone who is using a kitchen aid attachment to do their grinding, for example. Who should buy this grinder? The person who is only going to be grinding in small batch sizes and won’t be putting it through regular hard usage. The 575-watt motor on this is powerful enough to grind regular sausage like bratwurst, but doing a 2nd grind through a 1/8" plate with this, like you would have to for making snack sticks or summer sausage, is going to be asking a lot of it. You will need to have the meat partially refrozen between the 1st and 2nd grind for it to work, and it isn’t going to be done very fast. On a 2nd grind, through a 1/8", you can expect to spend a decent amount of time. It will still do it, but it is not going to make a quick and easy job of it.

Walton’s Processing Grinders Specs

We have the # 8, the # 12, the # 22, and the big # 32. These grinders share a lot of features and specs, so we will go over the commonalities first. The head, housing, and trays are made from stainless steel, the housing has been polished to a mirror finish which makes it easy to tell if it has been thoroughly cleaned and makes it look at home out on a counter instead of hidden away in a cabinet or garage. They all have metal gears and metal roller bearings for long life, in addition to a heavy-duty handle for ease of moving, a permanently lubricated motor with a built-in circuit breaker, and non-slip feet so it won’t move around on you. They also all come with a 4.5mm and a 10mm grinding plate, as well as a grinding knife. They are all ETL listed, which means they are capable of being used in a food production environment like a commercial kitchen or restaurant. Lastly, they all have a year warranty that will be backed up by Walton’s, and they all fit with Walton’s 50lb meat mixer, the Walton’s Quick Patty maker, and the All-around jerky maker.

Reverse Function

In all the testing that we did, only the meat that was truly frozen was able to clog our # 22 grinder. And when we say frozen, we mean really frozen solid could clog the grinder up, and then only when the grinder was stopped while the auger was fully stuffed with the frozen meat. Now, we have heard people saying that they would still prefer a reverse function, and we are going to have those added to future models, but the early ones at least have forward only, but this shouldn’t really be a problem.

# 8 Walton’s Processing Grinder

The # 8 is a large step up from the Kitchen # 8 grinders; the only thing that they share in common is the size of the plates and the knives that are used. This grinder is perfect for the person who is just getting into processing or hunting and is planning on doing a few batches a year. If you want to make sausage from smaller game like pheasant or duck, then this will be perfect for you. The # 8 will grind around 5 lb a minute on the first grind; the tray up top is if you are a beginner deer hunter and you will be doing 1 deer a year, this will also work for you, but if you’re going to go much beyond that, or want something that will get you through your meat quicker then you’ll need to step up to something like a # 12.

# 12 Walton’s Processing Grinder

The # 12 has a .75 HP motor and a larger head than the # 8, meaning it can grind up to 7 lb a minute, and this is perfect for someone who is going to do a few deer a year and some pork butts for snack sticks and summer sausage. Now, this is capable of much larger jobs, but in general, if you are going to grind more than 300 lb a year, you will want to step up to a # 22. I say want to because technically, you could grind 1,000 lb a year with this thing; you will just have to be very patient as the head size on this unit isn’t designed for that output. You will also have to plan well, as you will not want your meat sitting out for long periods of time.

# 22 Walton’s Processing Grinder

The next step up is the # 22, and this is for the person who makes lots of products a year. If you grind less than 300 lb a year, you really don’t necessarily need this unit unless you like getting through your batches quickly and easily. Now, this is the unit that we use in our meatgistics videos, and we are very familiar with it; it can easily get through 10 lb a minute, so you are grinding for 2 minutes and 30 seconds for a 25lb batch. That goes by incredibly fast. I have ground completely frozen product with this grinder, with both the commercial and retail plates and knives (* Edit, initially, Speco plates and knives worked with this model, but Speco made a change to the size of the hole for the knife, and it no longer works*) I don’t recommend doing this, but it can be done. Really, the person who should be buying this grinder is the serious enthusiast who wants to be able to make a really high-quality product with minimal fuss.

# 32 Walton’s Processing Grinder

And finally, the # 32; who should buy this? Well, for anyone who is going to be grinding large batches, this grinder is easily capable of grinding up to 825 lb an hour, which is about 14 lb a minute. I personally think that this could do over that, but to be safe, we are sticking with that number. So this would be a perfect option for someone who gets together with friends and does a few deer or even a few hogs a year. It has a larger-sized head than the # 22 and a more powerful motor. This grinder doesn’t work with both Speco plates and knives, but the size advantage is still going to grind meat a lot quicker than any of the other sizes, even the # 22 with better plates and knives. Now, the cost is about $200 more than the # 22 at the time we are recording this. So, does the ability to get through your meat a little bit quicker, almost 50% quicker than the # 22, make it worth that $200? I’d say if money doesn’t matter, then yes, but if you are trying to do this on a budget, that $200 could be invested in a better stuffer or the 50 lb meat mixer that hooks up to our processing grinders and runs that for you.

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Equipment Header Low Temp Cooking in Your Oven (And Sous Vide) Starting at Low Temp

For almost any type of cured sausage, one of the best things you can do is to start by setting your smoker or oven to a very low temp, no more than 20° higher than the body temperature of the animal was. This prevents the proteins in the meat from suffering too much heat shock damage.

The problem is that most home smokers or ovens won’t reach that low temp. One of the ways people combat this is by propping the lid of their smoker or oven open to let some of the heat “bleed” out. To do this, you will need a probe thermometer that has the ability to act as an ambient temp thermometer, so you know what the actual temperature of the oven is. We began by setting the oven to 175°, which was the lowest that our oven would go, and propping the door open a good amount to let the heat escape. We quickly found out that this was too much propping and that only a very small opening was necessary.

Probe Thermometer Sous Vide Pepperoni Texture Cooking Temperature

We were able to stabilize our top rack at exactly 120°, but our bottom rack continued to change dramatically, so we gave up and moved everything to one rack. We are also lucky enough to have a convection oven option in this oven, so for the first hour, I turned that on to keep the air moving; this mimicked the airflow of a smoker with dampers wide open, so it worked well for our initial drying phase.

After they had cooked for an hour at 120°, we began to experiment with moving it higher and higher. We were able to get the top rack to reach 130° by closing the door even more and then 150° by opening the door more and raising the temperature, and finally 180° by simply closing the door and setting it to 175°.

Finish Sous Vide Style

We also decided to pull these and finish them up sous vide style. We moved some into a sous vide cooker at 100°, some at 120°, and some at 135°, and we moved one of the 120° pepperonis to a pot of water that we had set to 170° on the stove to prove that even if you don’t have a sous vide cooker, you can still get a sous vide-style finished product, as long as you are patient and careful.

We have done this before, and we again found that you should wait until your product is around 120-135° before moving it. The pepperoni we moved at 100° did not have as good of a texture as the ones that had dried longer in the oven/smoker.

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Equipment Header How to Grind Meat - Tips & Tricks Overview

Grinding meat is one of the most common things that most home processors do; it doesn’t matter what sausage you are making or if you are just making a bulk ground product to add to products later; it all has to go through a grinder and getting it ground as quickly and cleanly as possible is going to help you make the best product you can.

So we wanted to show you two huge factors that affect the length of time it takes you to grind your meat. Remember, the longer it is out of the cooler the more chance it is going to have to grow microorganisms, and the warmer the meat is, the harder it will be to grind, and the more likely the fat is to smear.

Probe Thermometer Pro-Cut 22 Second Grind Importance of Cold Meat

We are using our Walton’s 22 Meat Grinder, and we will grind 2 separate batches to show you the difference cold meat can have on the speed of a grind. One was straight from the cooler, and the other was sitting in our blast freezer for about 20 minutes. The first grind through a 3/8" on the meat from the cooler took us 3 minutes, and the one from the freezer took us 2 minutes and 35 seconds. So that is a small amount of difference, certainly nothing to get excited about.

However, the real benefit is on the second grind, which will always take longer. The 2nd grind, through a 1/8 inch plate, took 14 minutes, and the one from the freezer took 12 minutes and 15 seconds. That is significant savings in time and also keeps your meat safer throughout this process.

If you really want your grind to go fast, you can also put your head assembly, including plates, knives, and auger, into the freezer for your grind.

Pro-Cut # 22 Grinder

The other thing that can really affect the speed and quality of your grind is, of course, your grinder. Obviously, size matters here, but that’s not the only thing that matters. We repeated the test we did on the Weston pro # 22 with our Pro -Cut # 22 grinder. We used the same plates and knives, so there was no difference between them. We also repeated the cooler vs. freezer experiment here.

The first grind through a 3/8" on the meat from the cooler took us 2 minutes on both batches. Honestly, the thing slowing this process down the most was probably my ability to keep pushing the meat down the throat of the grinder.

The 2nd grind, through a 1/8 inch plate, took 5 minutes 30 seconds, compared to 14 minutes on the Weston Pro # 22, and the one from the freezer took 3 minutes 50 seconds instead of the 12 minutes it took with the other one. So clearly, the grinder you are using matters, as does the temperature of the meat you are trying to grind.

Now, obviously, the pro-cut # 22 is significantly more expensive than the Weston pro # 22, but this is a good example of the advantages that commercial processors have over what you are trying to do at home. So, if you are trying to make a product at home that is as good as what you can get in the store, you need to take advantage of every little trick that you can!

Tips

If you really want your grind to go fast, you can also put your head assembly, including plates, knives, and auger, into the freezer for your grind.

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Luis Tola post the pics here so a lot of eyes can see it and maybe help.

Also, even if you ordered it from China, you must have bought it from someone and have a brand name, webpage, Amazon link you bought it from in your orders, etc? The more info you give, the more help folks can maybe offer.

Miket482000 https://www.waltonsinc.com/packaging/deli-paper deli wrap might be worth checking out though it is a little pricey depending on how much you do but other than that I cant think of anything that you could use.

Jonathon
Yep. Just looked and tried it there. Perfect fit. Thanks.

Equipment Header Meat Processing Equipment: 202 Grinder Maintenance

Attend this entry level class from Meatgistics University by watching the video, reading the article and post any questions you have!

Plates and Knives

Lubricate your plates and knives with white oil before your turn on your grinder. If you do not do this then you are going to cause friction and heat with your plate and knife and will end up with a mushy product. For a more complete list of tips for plates and knives check out this post on extending the life of your plates and knives Also, you should marry plates and knives, meaning if you have two different plates you should have two different knives and you only use them with each other.

Grinder Parts Grinder Parts Safety Plate Locking Ring

Do not use a wrench to tighten the locking nut on your grinder head! Some models of grinders come with a wrench that is specifically designed to loosen your grinders locking nut. They are NOT designed to tighten them down, you want to tighten it down with your hands or you are going to create too much pressure between the plate and knives which will lead to a host of problems!

Augers

Check your auger stud and replace if necessary. This the part of the Auger that the plate and knife sit on and they are replaceable in many models. A worn down stud is going to allow everything to start bouncing and will eventually ruin your auger which is a lot more expensive to replace than your stud.

Stuffing With a Grinder

If you are using your grinder to stuff product into a casing make sure you are using a star stuffing adapter! If you do not then your auger is going to ride on the bottom of the throat of your grinder and you will be lucky if you don’t ruin both your auger AND your head.

Run Time

Check your manufacturer’s operating time instructions and abide by them. Some grinders are not designed to be run for 20 minutes at a time, the motors are just not powerful enough and some of them have plastic gears. If you have to do 4 5 minute stretches that is a lot better than ending up with a blown motor! Grinders like the Walton’s Processing Grinders are capable of doing large batches, where some smaller kitchen grinders will not be able to go for running continuously for 20 minutes.

Cleaning Your Grinder Parts

Also, check the manufacturer operating manual for cleaning instructions, not all grinders are made the exact same way so some of them require different parts to be cleaned than others. Some have parts that are dishwasher safe and some don’t, my suggestion is to hand wash everything. We like using Neutra Sol General Cleaner but you can also use Dawn or other dish soaps on most parts, again check your manual.

If you miss something and some meat residue makes it’s way deep into the throat you are going to have a nasty surprise the next time you grind something! After you have cleaned everything I like to spray it with Sanitizing rinse as well. Cleaning it with soap gets the fat, meat and dirt off of it but sanitizing it will make sure anything living on it will be killed.

Getting a grinder head cleaning brush can make cleaning the throat of your grinder a lot easier on you. It can be hard to get anything down the throat the grooves and just running water down there is not going to work!

Clearing Jams

If your grinder has a reverse function and you have a jam you can run reverse for a second or two and see if that clears it. If it does not you need to turn off your grinder, unplug it and then break it down and clean the throat, plate, knife, and auger.

Stomper

Before you turn your grinder on check to make sure there is nothing like a knife hanging down from the pan into the throat. This seems unlikely but I wouldn’t be telling you to check if it hadn’t happened! This is also where you should check the length of your stomper and make sure it has a cross guard of some sort, without this the stomper could easily hit the auger as you are pushing the meat down, this could damage your auger and could shave pieces of plastic off of your stomper and then that is going to be in your food!

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Equipment Header Maintenance for Automatic Syringe Injectors Types of Injectors

Automatic/Pump Syringe - These types of injectors have a draw tube that will go into a bowl or other container that has the solution already mixed in it. The action of the injector will draw the solution up into a chamber or canister on the injector and then out through the needle and into the meat. These types of injectors can have either artery needles or, more commonly, spray needles that have 4 or more holes where the solution will come out.

Marinade Injector - On these types of injectors, the needle acts as both the draw and injector. When you want to fill the injector’s chamber, you need to pull back on the trigger and draw it into the chamber. To inject, press down on the trigger. The drawback of these styles is that all the holes on the injector needle need to be covered, or you will draw air into the chamber.

Soap and Water Plunger xxxxx Maintenance for Automatic Injectors

First, we are going to go over simply breaking it down and how to put it back together, as you should be breaking it all the way down before your first use to clean off the oils. The first thing you will want to do is to remove the needle to get it out of the way. Run hot water through this to clean it.

Now unscrew the locking ring that connects the manifold to the canister. Once this is done, set the manifold aside and remove the canister from the base. If you cannot just pull it out, press the trigger and stick your finger behind the canister to slide it out. Now remove the O-ring from the front of the canister and set both of these aside.

Next, take the draw nozzle, which is the piece that connects to the manifold that draws the solution up into the canister, and twist it until it comes off, be careful not to lose the spring in there. This spring is the same side on both sides; this is important to note for reassembly. Now remove the plunger from the draw nozzle; note that the plunger faces down. The plunger and spring allow the solution to come up the tube but block it when you want to inject your solution. Also, remove the o-ring that sits below the threads of the draw nozzle.

Thoroughly clean the spring, plunger, and assembly in warm soapy water. If you don’t properly clean this, the plunger will get clogged, and you won’t be able to suck up the solution into your injector.

Next, remove the needle holder base by twisting it. Note that this spring is wider on one end; this is the end that you want to position closest to the base, so the narrow end is facing towards your needle. There is another plunger in there that goes into the hole on the manifold side. This allows the solution to travel towards the needle but blocks it when you are refilling the canister, so no air or solution can make it back from the needle. Also, remove the o-ring around the manifold and remove the needle base protector.

I like to soak all these parts in warm soapy water for 10 minutes and then spray them with water and remove any noticeable build-up to form the solution. Pay special attention to the plungers during this process, as if these are not cleaned well, the injector will not work. Make sure everything is clean and dry before reassembling it.

Now that everything is cleaned, you can put it back together. First, insert the canister back into the base; the easiest way to do this is to press the trigger and then push it in. Next, put the o-ring back into position and set this aside.

Now put your locking ring over the manifold and screw that onto the base of the unit. Replace the O-ring that you removed earlier over the threads of the nozzle. Now place your plunger back into the draw nozzle with it pointed downwards and put the spring that is the same size on both ends over the plunger, and screw this back into the manifold.

Now place the o-ring back around the manifold opening and replace the plunger so that it is pointing back towards the canister. Next, take the spring that is thicker at one end and place it over the plunger, and screw the needle base back into the manifold. Now reattach the needle base protector and screw on your needle.

Maintenance for Marinade Injectors

These are far simpler to clean. Simply remove the plunger from the chamber and clean the inside of the chamber and the O-ring around the plunger. Then run hot water through the needle and the chamber and let everything soak in hot water. Once everything is dried, simply reassemble it.

Should You Buy A Marinade Injector?

If you do a lot of whole muscle smoking or curing, then one of these styles is essential. The ability to get the seasoning, cure, and other additives deep into the meat quickly is a large advantage over having to rely on osmosis.

Best Marinade Injectors For Beginners

It will depend on the style you want and how often it will be used. If you will rarely use it and just want a simple injector, then Walton’s 4 oz Marinade Injector would be the one I would go with. If you are going to be using it often and want something more convenient to use and don’t mind the increased complexity, then Walton’s Automatic Syringe Injector would be my recommendation.

Other Information

There are also Brine Pumps that are more useful in commercial applications and Multi-needle Injectors that would be used in larger plants.

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Equipment Header How Do Smokers Work? Rotisserie Smoker Vertical Smoker Vertical Smokers -

Vertical smokers have a heat source, usually gas or electric, at the bottom of the smoker, and the pellets or wood chips sit on top of the heat source, causing them to smolder and smoke. There will be one or more dampers on the bottom of the smoker and one at the top to allow smoke to come up from the bottom and out of the top, drawing the smoke up and over your product. The one disadvantage to these units is that they are not suitable for grilling; they really can only be used as a smoker.

Ceramic / Barrel / Offset Smokers -

If you like Charcoal and wood smoking, then a Ceramic, Barrel, or offset Smoker like the ABS Pit Boss might be the best way for you to go. These work great for smoking large amounts of meat at a time or large cuts of meat. The Pit Boss has a rotisserie inside it that keeps the meat moving to make sure everything gets the same amount of smoke and prevents you from having to worry about any cold spots in your smoker. These smokers can range anywhere from basic to very advanced, with electronics monitoring the amount of airflow and rotisserie. These types of smokers provide the most classic smoke flavor as they use wood chunks and/or charcoal as both the smoke and heat source. In my opinion, the only disadvantage to these types of smokers is the cleanup and setup required.

Pellet / Combo Smokers -

A pellet combo smoker is a good choice for someone who will do some smoking but always wants to be able to easily grill on the same piece of equipment. These use wood pellets and can smoke at temperatures as low as 150° or grill up to 500° or more. They have a hopper with pellets on one side and an auger that feeds those pellets down into a heat source and then burns the pellets to act as the heat and smoke source. A chimney will be set off to the opposite side of the hopper to draw the smoke out of the grill area. The advantage of these smokers is the ease of use, just hit a button, and they are ready to go. The disadvantage would be that you are not going to pick up as much smoke as you would with a wood smoker, and you generally won’t be able to start below 150°.

How Important is a Meat Smoker?

Smokers are an essential part of the homemade sausage and meat snack-making process. For commercial processing, a good smokehouse is where I would recommend you spend more money as you can make it back faster than on almost any other piece of equipment. For home processors, a quality smoker will give you a much better-finished product and make your entire process more enjoyable.

Alternatives to a Meat Smoker

People without a way to smoke can absolutely still make Summer Sausage, Snack Sticks, or really any other type of meat snack. You can cook all of these items in an oven, and you can add smoke flavor by using Hickory Smoke Powder. Of course, a smoker is preferable as it will give you a more authentic taste.

Should You Buy a Meat Smoker

Absolutely you should get a smoker. If you don’t think you will smoke enough to spend the money on a dedicated smoker, you can get a pellet combo grill to replace your propane smoker! Meat that comes off of a pellet grill/smoker has a much different flavor than meat cooked on a propane grill.

Other Information

Make sure that you are using the correct fuel source for your vertical smoker. Some, like the PK-100, need to use sawdust only, and pellets can create issues.

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bpeel1077 I’ve been watching this too. I have the C*****s #32 grinder, and the reviews for their mixer are not very good. I’d like to know myself.

Didn’t think about the size of the stuff I’m already adding plenty of liquid but it makes sense and now more money for Waltons! Thanks

Austin sounds good keep us posted if you do come up with one. The small 3/8 tubes are brutal to stuff through.

truckmountgirl Yes, an asphalt re-grinder ought to do the trick. That is some serious grinding. I wonder if pulverizing with a heavy mallet, about like splitting wood might do the trick for small batches. I like your idea about making your own dog & cat food. I had an aunt that did that, long before it was cool. She sadly to say died about two years ago at nearly 100. She was the last to go on my Mom’s side of the family.